Tell it the bag you want, not the size code. Set the finished width, height and depth, pick how far you want the handles to drop, and the pattern works backwards to the rectangle you should cut, including the corner squares that give the bag its depth.
OPEN THE PATTERN TOOL →A boxed-corner tote is deceptively mathematical. The depth wraps around to form both side walls, so the cut width is the finished width plus the depth, and the corner square you remove is exactly half the depth. Get that wrong by a centimetre and the bag comes out narrower than you planned. The tool shows the identity as you drag, so you can see the base measurement stay honest.
You can adjust width, height, depth, handle drop, handle width, seam allowance. The pattern has 3 piece types and 10 assembly steps, all of which update with your numbers.
| FINISHED | 38 cm × 36 cm × 12 cm |
| BODY CUT | 52 cm × 44 cm |
| BOX CHECK | cut 50 cm less 2 corners = 38 cm base |
| CORNER SQUARE | 60 mm × 60 mm |
| HANDLE | 79 cm × 10 cm cut |
| HANDLE DROP | 24 cm |
| TOP FINISH | lining |
| SEAM ALLOW | 10 mm |
| FABRIC (112cm W) | ~126 cm |
| PRINT SHEET | fits A0 |
Those are the starting numbers. Change any of them in the tool and everything above recalculates, including the fabric estimate and the sheet size.
A tiled PDF for home printing on Letter or A4, laid out at true scale with a 50 mm calibration square and a page map, or a full-scale SVG sized in real millimetres for projector sewing and cutting machines. Everything is free, with no account and no email address.
Print at 100% scale and never use "fit to page". Measure the calibration square before you cut anything: if it measures 50 mm, the rest of the pattern is right.
Canvas, duck cloth, denim or upholstery remnants. A metre of 112 cm fabric covers most totes, double that if you are lining it. Interface the panels if you want a bag that stands up on its own.